84 in Tradition, 88 or 89 in Reality
Varanasi's ghats are traditionally counted at 84 — a number rooted in Hindu cosmology (12 zodiac signs multiplied by 7 chakras, or alternatively the 84 lakh, 8.4 million, life forms a soul is said to pass through before human birth) rather than a literal architectural count. Modern, detailed surveys, most notably Dr Rana P.B. Singh's 1993 and 2009 documentation, actually identify between 84 and 89 distinct named ghats along the roughly 6.5 km western riverbank stretching from Assi Ghat in the south to Adi Keshava Ghat in the north, with the discrepancy coming down to whether small sub-ghats with their own distinct history (Ganga Mahal I and II, for instance) are counted separately or merged with larger adjacent ghats. For a visitor, this distinction matters less than it might seem — whether you count 84 or 89, the same continuous riverfront walk covers essentially the same ground, and "visiting all the ghats" in practice means walking this single continuous stretch rather than tracking down a precise numbered checklist.
The Pancha Tirtha: The Five You Must Not Skip
If time is genuinely limited, five ghats form the traditional core pilgrimage circuit, the Pancha Tirtha, and visiting these five in sequence gives a meaningful, complete experience even without walking every one of the 84-89 total:
- Assi Ghat — the southern boundary, where the (now largely underground) Assi stream meets the Ganga
- Dashashwamedh Ghat — the busiest, most central ghat, where Brahma is said to have performed a ten-horse (dashashwamedh) sacrifice, and the site of the nightly Ganga Aarti
- Manikarnika Ghat — the primary cremation ground, where Parvati's earring is said to have fallen, believed to grant instant liberation to those cremated here
- Panchganga Ghat — the mythical confluence point of five rivers, considered especially auspicious for ritual bathing
- Adi Keshava Ghat — the northern boundary, marking the traditional edge of the sacred city
The Complete South-to-North Walking Route
The classic, traditional pilgrimage sequence walks south to north — from Assi to Adi Keshava — known as part of the broader Pancha-kroshi circuit tradition. A representative sequence through the most significant named ghats runs: Assi → Tulsi → Harishchandra → Kedar → Man Mandir → Dashashwamedh → Rajendra Prasad → Meer → Lalita → Manikarnika → Scindia → Ganga Mahal → Panchganga → Raj → Adi Keshava. The full walk covers roughly 6.4-6.5 km and takes 4 to 6 hours at a relaxed pace with stops for photographs, temple visits and rest; a faster, more focused walk covering only the Pancha Tirtha plus the most notable named ghats between them can be completed in 2-3 hours.
Ghat by Ghat: The Stories Worth Knowing
Dashashwamedh Ghat is Varanasi's most photographed and most visited ghat, renovated historically by the Maratha Peshwa Balaji Bajirao in 1740 and further enhanced by Ahilyabai Holkar (the same Maheshwar-associated queen discussed in our Narmada river guide) in 1774. It hosts the nightly Ganga Aarti, covered in full in our dedicated Ganga Aarti guide, and functions as the practical hub for most sunrise boat rides.
Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat are Varanasi's two cremation grounds, with fires at Manikarnika said to have burned continuously for centuries. Harishchandra is named for the legendary truth-telling king who, according to tradition, worked here as a cremation attendant after losing his kingdom, a story emphasising honesty and duty even in the most reduced circumstances. Photography at both cremation ghats requires genuine restraint and respect — never photograph the cremation process itself or grieving families up close, and always ask permission before photographing anyone engaged in ritual activity here.
Kedar Ghat stands out visually for its distinctive South Indian temple architecture, brought here centuries ago by Tamil Nadu pilgrims and visually unique among the predominantly North Indian architectural style of most other ghats along the stretch.
Man Mandir Ghat is home to an observatory built by the Rajput astronomer-king Sawai Jai Singh II in the early eighteenth century, part of the same series of Jantar Mantar astronomical instruments he built across several Indian cities, giving this specific ghat a genuinely distinct scientific-historical dimension beyond its religious significance.
Scindia Ghat is known for a partially submerged Shiva temple, sunk at an angle into the riverbed due to the sheer weight of the structure when it was originally built too close to the water, and repeatedly repaired over the centuries, most notably by Daulat Rao Scindia in 1937.
Walking vs. Boat: Which Should You Choose?
Most experienced visitors recommend combining both rather than choosing exclusively one method. A sunrise boat ride, typically departing from Assi or Dashashwamedh Ghat between 5:30 and 6:30 AM, offers the single best vantage point for seeing the ghats' full architectural sweep and the city's morning ritual activity — bathing, yoga, laundry washing — from the water, an angle simply unavailable on foot. Following the boat ride with a walking tour of the same stretch, ideally later that same morning or the next day, lets you actually enter the temples, alleys and specific ghats that catch your interest from the water, engage directly with priests and local vendors, and examine architectural details like Man Mandir's observatory or Scindia's submerged temple up close. Attempting only a boat ride skips the ability to actually set foot on most ghats; attempting only a walk means missing the singular photographic and atmospheric experience of the dawn river view.
Best Time of Day and Year
Early morning, roughly 5:00 to 7:30 AM, is unanimously recommended as the most atmospheric window — golden light, active morning rituals, and meaningfully thinner crowds than later in the day. Evening, 6:00 to 8:00 PM, is the second essential window specifically for the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, covered fully in our dedicated guide. October through March offers the most comfortable walking weather; April through June brings intense heat that makes the full 4-6 hour walk genuinely uncomfortable; and the July-September monsoon season floods lower sections of several ghats, sometimes cutting off the continuous walking route entirely and requiring detours through the city's back lanes instead.
Practical Etiquette and Safety
- Dress modestly, particularly near temples and the cremation ghats — shoulders and knees covered is a safe general standard
- Never photograph cremation activity at Manikarnika or Harishchandra Ghat up close, or without explicit permission from those present
- If bathing, stick to designated, chain-marked bathing areas rather than swimming into open current, which can be genuinely dangerous even for strong swimmers
- Agree boat ride prices clearly with the boatman before departure, not after — rates vary by season and season demand, and pre-agreement avoids disputes
- Be prepared for persistent but generally good-natured offers from guides, boatmen and vendors along the busier ghats; a polite, clear "no" is respected
- Wear sturdy, closed or strapped footwear rather than loose sandals for the steeper, uneven stone steps at several ghats
Hiring a Local Guide
Varanasi's old quarter behind the ghats is a genuine labyrinth where GPS navigation frequently fails and narrow alleys lead to unexpected dead ends. For visitors specifically wanting the fuller stories behind lesser-known ghats — beyond the handful of famous names covered in general guides like this one — hiring a local, knowledgeable guide for a half-day walking tour is widely considered worthwhile, transforming what could otherwise be simple navigation into a genuinely informed cultural and historical experience, particularly for visitors without existing familiarity with Hindu ritual practice or local history.
More Ghats Worth Knowing By Name
Beyond the handful covered in detail above, several further ghats along the stretch carry their own specific, worthwhile stories. Tulsi Ghat, named for the poet-saint Tulsidas who is said to have lived and composed part of the Ramcharitmanas here, sits close to the southern end of the walk and retains a notably quieter, more residential character than the busier central ghats. Raj Ghat, near the northern end of the traditional walk, historically served as an important crossing point and now sits near the Malviya Bridge, one of the city's main river crossings, giving it a more infrastructural, less purely devotional character than most other named ghats. Lalita Ghat, close to Manikarnika, is home to a distinctive Nepali-style temple built by a Nepalese king, its pagoda-influenced wooden architecture visually distinct from the North Indian stone Nagara style dominating most of the riverfront. Panchganga Ghat, beyond its confluence significance noted above, is also historically associated with the poet-saint Kabir, who is said to have had a formative spiritual experience at this specific location. Each of these secondary stories rewards the kind of unhurried, guided exploration discussed above far more than a rushed pass along the main walking route alone.
What to Bring for a Full Ghats Day
- Comfortable, sturdy footwear — the stone steps are uneven, sometimes wet, and occasionally quite steep between ghats
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen) for daytime walking, since much of the route offers little continuous shade
- A reusable water bottle — plenty of small shops along the route sell bottled water, but carrying your own reduces plastic waste along a riverfront already dealing with the pollution challenges discussed in our Ganga river guide
- Small denomination cash for boat rides, temple donations, and purchases from riverside vendors, since card payment is rarely available at the smaller stalls and boats
- A physical or offline map of the ghat sequence, given how easily mobile signal and GPS accuracy can drop in the narrow lanes behind the riverfront
Photography Along the Ghats
Most ghats welcome photography without restriction, and the early morning light in particular draws photographers from around the world specifically for this stretch of riverfront. The one firm, important exception is Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghat, where photographing the cremation process itself, or grieving families up close, is genuinely inappropriate and, at Manikarnika specifically, actively discouraged by those managing the site — general views of the ghat's architecture and atmosphere from a respectful distance are generally acceptable, but the specific act of cremation and those mourning should not be treated as photographic subject matter regardless of how visually striking the scene might appear to a visitor.
Combining the Ghats Walk With Temple Visits
Because many of Varanasi's most significant temples sit just behind or adjacent to specific ghats, most pilgrims combine their ghat walk with temple darshan along the same route rather than treating the two as separate excursions. Kashi Vishwanath sits a short walk from the ghats near Lalita and Manikarnika; the Vishalakshi Shakti Peetha, covered in our Shakti Peetha guide, sits close by as well. For the fullest picture of how to combine ghats and temples into a single, well-sequenced Varanasi pilgrimage day, see our companion guide on visiting all the temples of Varanasi.
The Ghats Through the Seasons: A Fuller Picture
Beyond the general October-to-March recommendation given earlier, it's worth understanding how dramatically the ghats' character shifts across the full year. During Kartik month (typically October-November), coinciding with the period following Diwali covered in our dedicated Diwali guide, the ghats see a specific surge of devotional activity, with many pilgrims observing Kartik Snan — a month of daily dawn bathing considered especially meritorious. During Dev Deepawali, held on the Kartik Purnima fifteen days after Diwali, all 84-89 ghats are illuminated with thousands of oil lamps simultaneously, an occasion sometimes described as even more visually overwhelming than Diwali itself specifically because of the sheer scale of the continuous riverfront lit from end to end. Conversely, during peak monsoon (July-August), several lower ghats disappear entirely underwater, and boat access becomes the only way to view some stretches at all — a genuinely different, if less conventionally picturesque, experience of the same riverfront.
Where to Stay for Easy Ghat Access
For visitors specifically prioritising repeated, flexible access to the ghats — for multiple dawn walks, unhurried exploration, or simply the ability to step outside directly onto the riverfront — accommodation directly within the old city's ghat-facing guesthouses, though often more basic than mid-range hotels set back from the river, offers a genuinely different quality of access compared to staying in Varanasi's newer, more modern hotel districts further from the water. Many of these riverfront guesthouses occupy converted historic havelis (mansions) with direct or near-direct ghat access, though narrow lanes mean luggage transport can require porters or hand-carrying for the final stretch, worth factoring into your packing decisions if choosing this style of accommodation specifically for its riverfront convenience.
The Ghats and Everyday Life: Beyond Pilgrimage
It's worth understanding that the ghats function as genuine, continuous public infrastructure for Varanasi's residents, not merely as pilgrimage sites frozen for visitor consumption. Throughout the day, alongside pilgrims and tourists, you'll see residents washing clothes, children playing, wrestlers (pehलwans) training at traditional akhadas built directly into some ghat complexes, boatmen conducting their daily trade, and vendors selling everything from flowers and prasad to snacks and souvenirs. This layering of the sacred and the utterly ordinary — a cremation proceeding at one ghat while children fly kites and families picnic at another just a few hundred metres away — is, for many first-time visitors, one of the most genuinely striking and memorable aspects of the entire experience, and worth observing with curiosity rather than surprise or discomfort; it reflects a long-standing, comfortable coexistence between devotional and everyday life that is specific to Varanasi's particular character among Indian pilgrimage cities.
A Practical Two-Day Ghats Itinerary
For visitors with roughly two days specifically dedicated to the ghats rather than the wider city, a sensible structure divides the experience as follows. Day one morning: sunrise boat ride from Assi or Dashashwamedh, covering the full stretch by water; day one afternoon: rest during the hottest hours, given the ghats' limited shade; day one evening: arrive early at Dashashwamedh for the Ganga Aarti. Day two morning: full walking tour from Assi to Adi Keshava, ideally with a local guide, stopping at the Pancha Tirtha and any secondary ghats of specific interest; day two afternoon: combine with temple visits at Kashi Vishwanath, Vishalakshi and other sites near the ghats, covered in our dedicated Varanasi temples guide. This structure ensures you experience the ghats from the water, on foot, at dawn, and at dusk — the four genuinely distinct registers this remarkable stretch of riverfront offers across a single 24-48 hour period.
Subah-e-Banaras: Assi Ghat's Own Morning Programme
Beyond the general dawn atmosphere discussed throughout this guide, Assi Ghat specifically hosts a dedicated daily cultural programme called Subah-e-Banaras ("Morning of Banaras"), combining live classical music, yoga demonstrations, and Vedic chanting performed each morning for a public audience of both devotees and visitors. This organised programme, distinct from the more spontaneous individual devotional activity found along most of the rest of the riverfront, offers a specifically curated introduction to Varanasi's classical cultural traditions for visitors who might otherwise not know where to encounter this dimension of the city's heritage, and has become, in its own right, one of Assi Ghat's specific drawing points beyond its role as the traditional southern starting point of the broader ghats walk.
Why the Ghats Matter Beyond Sightseeing
It's worth closing on why this particular stretch of riverfront has drawn continuous devotional attention for well over a thousand years, rather than treating the walk purely as a scenic or photographic destination. Each ghat represents a specific point of ritual access to the Ganga, discussed in full in our dedicated Ganga river guide, and the sheer density of named, individually storied access points along a single 6.5 km stretch reflects a civilisation that has, across many centuries, continuously invested meaning, architecture and ritual specificity into an already sacred river rather than treating any single access point as sufficient. Walking the full stretch, whether in one dedicated day or across a more relaxed multi-day visit, is less a checklist exercise than an encounter with this accumulated layering of devotion — each set of stone steps representing a distinct community, dynasty, or individual act of faith added to the same sacred riverbank over a very long span of continuous human history.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many ghats does Varanasi actually have?
The traditional cosmological number is 84. Modern surveys count between 84 and 89 distinct named ghats depending on how small sub-ghats are counted.
Can you walk all the ghats of Varanasi in one day?
Yes — the full 6.4-6.5 km stretch from Assi to Adi Keshava is walkable in 4 to 6 hours at a relaxed pace, though monsoon flooding (July-September) can make some sections impassable.
What is the Pancha Tirtha in Varanasi?
The five most sacred ghats forming the core pilgrimage circuit: Assi, Dashashwamedh, Manikarnika, Panchganga and Adi Keshava.
Is it disrespectful to visit the cremation ghats as a tourist?
No — Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghat are widely visited by pilgrims and travellers alike, and are considered spiritually significant rather than off-limits. Respectful observation from a reasonable distance is appropriate; close-up photography of the cremation process itself is not.
Should I take a boat ride or walk the ghats?
Ideally both — a sunrise boat ride offers the best overall view of the ghats' architectural sweep, while a walking tour lets you enter specific temples and examine details up close.
What is the best time of year to visit the Varanasi ghats?
October through March offers the most comfortable walking weather, avoiding both intense summer heat and monsoon flooding of the lower steps.
What is Subah-e-Banaras?
A dedicated daily morning cultural programme at Assi Ghat combining classical music, yoga and Vedic chanting for public audiences — a curated introduction to Varanasi's classical heritage distinct from the more spontaneous devotional activity elsewhere along the riverfront.
Is it safe to walk the ghats alone, especially for solo women travellers?
Generally yes during daylight hours along the main, busier stretch, though the same common-sense precautions applicable to any crowded Indian tourist destination apply — stick to well-lit, populated areas after dark, and consider a guided walk if travelling solo for the first time in an unfamiliar city.
Do all the ghats have names, or are some unnamed?
Nearly all are individually named, though smaller sub-ghats between major named ghats sometimes lack widely known individual names and are informally grouped with their larger neighbour when giving directions or describing the route.
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